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You Don’t Need Expensive Airbrush Cleaner, Use This Instead!

Hobby Tradecraft, News and Info, Reviews 1 Response »

Jan 142016

Airbrushes are becoming a very popular “must have” among the miniature painter crowd and for anyone new to the practice of airbrushing models there are usually a lot of questions to go along with that. For lots of folks, they get all tooled up and ready to airbrush and it occurs to them that they’re going to need to clean their airbrush during paint sessions in between color changes and then thoroughly clean it after their painting session is over. This brings us to the topic of airbrush cleaner.

What kind of airbrush cleaner can you use? You may be surprised by the answer.

Keeping your airbrush clean is fundamental to having a hassle free and fun airbrushing experience so it’s a good idea to develop a good cleaning regimen. It’s also important to have the right tools and cleaning agents to keep that airbrush working well. Today we’re going to talk about saving money on airbrush cleaner.

What Kind of Cleaner Can You Use To Clean Your Airbrush?

There are a lot of different products that are suitable for cleaning an airbrush. These range from name brand products made by the same companies that make airbrushes and airbrush paint, to run of the mill household items that you probably already have under the sink or in the garage.

The name brand products like Medea Airbrush Cleaner and Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner tend to be the default cleaners that everyone assumes are necessary. These products are actually very expensive considering that you’ll be using some cleaner between color changes and quite a bit during post paint session cleanup. The truth is that you can use some very inexpensive cleaners to do the same thing. Some folks don’t run cleaner through the airbrush between colors. When I ask why they do it this way the answer is almost always “to save money”. This is why I use less expensive cleaners.

This Iwata Medea Airbrush Cleaner works well but like many name brand products, it’s absurdly expensive.

First lets talk about cost. A bottle of Medea Airbrush Cleaner from an art supply store like Dick Blick or similar will run you between five and six dollars for a 16 ounce package. I looked at Blick today and their price for the 16 ounce squeeze bottle is $5.29. That works out to 33 cents per ounce (approx). This means that a gallon of this product will eventually cost you a whopping forty two dollars. By comparison Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner comes in a 200ml bottle – about 6 ¾ ounces – and costs around $8 a bottle. The Vallejo product is more than one dollar per ounce. Multiply that by the number of ounces in a gallon, 128, and you get the idea. (I would usually use Amazon pricing for this comparison but to be quite honest the prices for these products on Amazon are insane. Here’s a link to the Medea Airbrush Cleaner so you can see what I’m talking about).

Secondly, what you’re actually buying is, for the most part, a mix of water, concentrated detergent and alcohol. A lot of other cheaper cleaners are made up of the same or very similar stuff. There’s really no reason to use such spendy cleaners in your airbrush when a readily available and much cheaper substitute can be used.

Fortunately, there is a great alternative. Quite simply, you can use a generic brand of automobile windshield washer fluid as an airbrush cleaning fluid and it will cost you pennies compared to the name brand cleaners. Take a look at this image taken at my local Walmart the other day.

This automotive windshield washer fluid makes an outstanding airbrush cleaner and as you can see it’s dirt cheap

I’ve been using this product or a similar one for about 5 years. Besides water, the active ingredient is methanol. There’s also a little bit of detergent. As you can see from the image above the price for a gallon of Supertech Windshield washer fluid is under $2 a gallon, even after adding in sales tax. I squirt a bit of this into the airbrush paint cup between color chang4es and run it through, then a bit of distilled water (you don’t have to use distilled water, but where I live the water is very hard and stains/scales up everything so I use distilled).

This wash bottle is perfect for dispensing your airbrush cleaner. Pick up two if you also need a rinse bottle for water

Since manhandling a gallon size bottle is tricky, I manage this by transferring the cleaner and water to a couple of these LDPE wash bottles with the hook nozzles. The bottles cost a few bucks each but you could use just about any container that will give you good control when dispensing the cleaner – an old counter top detergent bottle or a used water bottle with a sport top/pop top.

The Iwata Medea airbrush cleaning station is a great for controlling and containing your waste from airbrush cleaner

When doing clean outs and color changes I spray leftover paint, cleaner and water into one of these Iwata Medea airbrush cleaning stations. I find that the jar is large enough to hold all of my waste from a typical painting session so I just empty and rinse it in the sink afterwards. I also like that the jar has a built in airbrush holder on the handle. Using the jar keeps the vapor and odor in my work area to a minimum and completely prevents any spills.

An Important Distinction About Generic Airbrush Cleaner

I’ve seen people use lots of different stuff including Windex and Simple Green, for cleaning airbrushes.. My one caution is that if you use a generic or household cleaning product, make sure you’re using one that does not have ammonia as a component. Ammonia is a little bit reactive with some metals and alloys and can cause corrosion or tarnishing.

While you can certainly use other cleaning agents in your airbrush, I like good ‘ol windshield washer fluid the best because it’s cheap and you can find it almost anywhere. Walmart, the auto parts store, convenience stores, even the automotive section at the supermarket has it sometimes. Using windshield washer fluid as an airbrush cleaner will save you a TON of money over the long haul.

Holiday Gift Guide For Your Favorite Miniatures Hobbyist

Geek Gifts, Hobby Tradecraft, Tabletop Gaming Comments Off

Dec 022015

We’ve made it through Thanksgiving week (in the US) and this, more than anything is the signal that we’ve officially started the holiday season. Since many of us will be thinking about what to get the hobbyist in our life (or maybe you need some ideas for your own Xmas wish list), I thought it would be a good time to run down a few items that would make excellent Christmas gifts for your favorite hobbyist. This post focuses on tools and hobbying accessories instead of actual games and miniatures. The first section is a selection of smaller items that would be perfect as stocking stuffers. The second section are physically larger gifts that you’ll probably end up putting under the tree. There are items at a variety of price points from under $20 to around the $100 range. In some cases I’ve also mentioned an item or two that pairs nicely with the main item in terms of utility.

Winsor Newton Series 7 Brushes & The Masters Brush Cleaner

The Winsor Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable paint brushes are an excellent brush for miniatures painters looking to level up

The Winsor Newton Series 7 paint brushes are kind of the holy grail of paint brushes for miniatures painters. These brushes make a great gift for the miniatures painter that’s been painting for awhile and is ready to up their game with better tools. These also are great because, due to the fact that they cost quite a bit more than your standard hobby shop paint brush, a lot of hobbyists are hesitant to get these for themselves because it’s a bit of an investment and can also feel a little intimidating. The good news is that because these brushes are so high quality, you don’t need a ton of them. I recommend the #0 and the #2 Winsor Newton Series 7 paint brushes if you’re looking at getting a couple of these. Those two sizes cover a lot of range in terms of utility and usefulness.

If you’re getting nice brushes like the Winsor Newton Series 7, invest in some brush cleaner as well. The Masters Brush Cleaner is an excellent product for the care and preserving of fine brushes

If you’re looking to add a little something to this then I’d also recommend adding a tub of The Masters Brush Cleaner to them. Proper cleaning and care will make these paint brushes last a long time, even longer than synthetics.

Wet Palette

The Privateer Press P3 Wet Palette, usually under $20 and perfect if you don’t want to build one yourself.

A wet palette is another really useful addition to the miniatures painters toolbox. It helps preserve paint by keeping the paint you’re working from drying out and helps you get to the proper consistency of paint for applying it to miniatures. It’s also really handy for blending and other effects. Privateer Press makes a handy wet palette that’s just right for miniatures painters. Consider adding in an extra pad of wet palette paper for the busy painter.

Porcelain Paint Palettes & Bowls

The Darice Oblong Porcelain Paint Palette is a solid addition to your paint station

Every good miniatures painter knows that you shouldn’t paint directly from the paint pot for several reasons including paints drying out, the potential for accidental paint spills, and getting too much paint on your brush or up in the metal ferrule that holds the bristles in place. For these reasons it’s nice to have a couple of palettes around your painting desk. You can get some super cheap plastic or tin palettes and these are perfectly serviceable. However if you’d like to have something a little nicer and that feels more solid, a ceramic palette or nesting ceramic bowls are a nice upgrade. I personally use this Darice 10 Well Oblong Porcelain Paint Palette and these large porcelain stacking bowls. These things are solid and have some heft to them so they don’t slide around and can’t be accidentally knocked over which keeps the messes down. They are prefect for when I need a larger amount of paint out for a bigger project and they’re also great for oil washes and custom paint mixes. Since they’re porcelain, they don’t stain and are very easy to clean even when you have let paint dry on them.

PaintWater/Not Paint Water Coffee Mugs

Get a set of these handy Paint Water/Not Paint Water coffee mugs to keep yourself from accidentally imbibing your paint water

Most painters keep a mug of water on their paint station for thinning paints and cleaning their brushes when changing colors or types of paint. Some of us drink coffee or adult beverages out of another mug while we’re working. A coffe mug that’s got “Not Paint Water” printed on the side is a fun gift for a painter and it’ll keep them from getting a mouthful of dirty water when they’re “in the zone” and focused on their painting. You can find these on Amazon sometimes but why not check out Etsy, there are several sellers there who make mugs with custom messages on them and it’s always cool to support small businesses doing hand made items.

Iwata Airbrush Cleaning Station

The Iwata Airbrush Cleaning Station is a really useful airbrushing accessory and includes a built in airbrush stand

The Iwata Airbrush Cleaning Station is a handy little thing to have that allows you to empty paint and cleaning fluid from your airbrush into a sealed container. It cuts down on messes and potential spills and actually holds quite a bit of liquid safely until you’re ready to empty it. The Iwata Airbrush Cleaning Station also doubles as an airbrush stand due to the way the handle is engineered.

Elmers X-Acto Knife Set in Zippered Case

This Elmers X-Acto Knife Set has a great variety of blades and handles and comes in a handy and portable zippered case

One thing a miniatures hobbyist always needs is a supply of sharp knives for trimming and cleaning model kits as well as doing customization and kitbashing. This handy Elmers X-Acto Knife set has a variety of handles and blades suitable for different jobs and everything comes in a nice zippered nylon case for storage or for throwing in your bag for emergency repairs on game day.

Cordless Dremel

The Dremel 7700 moto tool is cordless, rechargeable and has plenty of power for typical miniature hobby tasks

The Dremel is a really handy motorized mini tool that can be used for all sorts of jobs like cutting, drilling, polishing and sanding. A rechargeable cordless Dremel is even handier as it’s more compact and can be taken with you in a portable tool kit. Even though it’s powered by a rechargeable battery it’s got enough power for most of the typical miniatures hobbyist and scenery jobs. There are a couple of choices here, the Dremel 7300 Mini Mite which is a smaller desktop version or the more powerful Dremel 7700 moto tool that has a bigger motor and battery. Both are excellent choices for miniature and model building. Throw in a Dremel accessory kit to go along with it and you’ve got a winning combination.

Donegan OptiVISOR and Light

The Donegan OptiiVISOR with replaceable lenses that can be quickly changed for different levels of magnification

The Donegan OptiVISORis a headset with magnifying lenses that’s completely hands free and can be worn over prescription glasses if needed. The lenses can be changed out to increase or decrease the amount of magnification as needed. These are great for working on those models with tiny accessories or for getting the detail right when painting miniatures. These especially useful for those older hobbyists who need a little help seeing the tiniest details on their projects.

The Donegan compatible OptiVISOR LED Light Attachment

Consider adding the OptiVISOR LED light kit which uses LEDs to flood the area you’re working on with bright light.

Airbrushes

The Iwata HP-C Plus Airbrush is a solid, high quality dependable workhorse that will take you a long way

Lots of miniatures hobbyists are making the jump to airbrushing these days. There are tons of choices and options for airbrushes, too many to list here but if you’re interested in learning the basics I have an article on the basics of airbrushes that you can check out here. Two excellent airbrush choices for the beginner are the Iwata HP-C Plus and the Badger Sotar 2020. Both of these are reasonably priced relative to the overall costs of getting into airbrushing and there’s a ton of information and video online about these models for the new airbrush user. Consider adding an airbrush compressor to go with this gift, more information about that below.

Airbrush Compressor

The Master Airbrush Single Piston Airbrush Compressor with Tank as sold on Amazon. All of this for only $89 shipped!

A great item to go along with a new airbrush is a small airbrush compressor. These can be very expensive but you really do not need to spend hundreds of dollars on a fancy compressor. The Master Airbrush TC20-T airbrush compressor is a great little compressor and comes in under $100 delivered from Amazon. These usually include a braided hose which means you have what you need to get started airbrushing. The hose that’s included with these is standardized for Iwata fittings so if you don’t have an Iwata airbrush pick up one of these airbrush adapter kits which covers about 99 percent of airbrushes commonly used.

Airbrush Spray Booth

This portable airbrush spray booth will keep your airbrushing environment clean

The last major piece of the airbrushing puzzle is optional but nice to have if your hobbyist is spraying indoors. This Master Airbrush portable airbrush spray booth has a fan that draws in the overspray and air and filters it keeping any stray paint from getting out of hand and helps with odor control. The kit includes parts to exhaust the filtered air out a nearby window or vent. Strictly optional but this will probably keep everyone else in the house happy and it’s also under $100 delivered if you buy it on Amazon.

Army Painter Mega Hobby Set & Mega Paint Set 2

The Army Painter Mega Hobby Set is great for someone who’s just getting started in the miniatures hobby

This gift idea is really for those that are brand new to the hobby and just getting started. The Army Painter Mega Hobby Set is your one stop shop for the beginning miniatures hobbyist. It’s conveniently packaged all together and has a great assortment of hobby tools like knives, clippers, files and tweezers. It also includes glues, a basic selection of Army Painter brand paints and paint brushes, a can of spray primer and is rounded out with a nice assortment of basing materials to finish off your miniatures like a pro. It even includes a 24 page booklet with lots of information to help you get started and dive right in to the miniatures hobby.

The Army Painter Mega Paint Set 2 is a great addition to the Mega Hobby Set and gives you an additional 42 paints, washes and more/army-painter-mega-paint-set-2

If you’re looking to expand this set, consider the Army Painter Mega Paint Set II which contains an additional 42 paints and includes washes and shades and some additional brushes.

Weathering Pigments from Vallejo & Secret Weapon Miniatures

Weathering Pigment sets from Vallejo and Secret Weapon Miniatures will allow you to add that extra bit of realism to your miniatures and models

This gift idea is for those hobbyists that are looking to add that extra level of realism to their miniatures. Weathering pigments are fine colored powders that are usually used to add color to paint medium. In this format they are literally just the pigment powder, usually in a small jar or tub and are applied with a brush or sponge to add different effects to a model in order to make it look worn and dirty or greasy or even rusty. These can be purchased individually but are also sold in sets of compatible shades around a theme like “Desert Sand and Mud” or “Rust and Oil” etc. I use weathering pigments from both Vallejo and Secret Weapon Miniatures. I like them both but recently have been leaning more towards the Secret Weapon Miniatures brand as I like their color selection and variety better. They also sell pre-selected sets of pigments and for a really nice gift Secret Weapon Miniatures have a set called “The Works” which includes all twenty three of the shades they offer in one complete package at a discount price of about 15% off the regular price if purchased separately. (It’s also a great time to buy Secret Weapon Miniatures products as many of their products are currently on sale at up to 25% off normal prices for their annual Black Friday sale which lasts until December 4^th).

The Wrap Up (See What I Did There?)

The perfect holiday gift for a miniatures hobbyist?

It’s a wrap! These are just a few ideas that I think many miniatures hobbyists would be pretty happy to receive in their stocking or find under the tree on Christmas morning. Whether you’re filling the role of Santa this year or need to give some not so subtle hints to someone about possible gift ideas for yourself this list should help make someone a little extra happy when it comes time to unwrap presents. If you were making a list along this theme what else would you suggest? Please add your ideas in the comment section below!

Airbrushing for the Miniatures Hobby – Airbrush Accessories

Hobby Tradecraft, News and Info, Tabletop Gaming 1 Response »

Feb 172015

In the last couple of articles we’ve looked at airbrushes and airbrush compressors. Today we’ll continue with that theme by exploring all of the extra stuff that you may need as you begin to airbrush. In terms of price per item the airbrush and compressor are likely the two most expensive parts of the process. However there are quite a few other things that you’re going to want to pick up as well. Most of these are fairly inexpensive. Some of these items are optional and you can either pass on them completely or pick them up at a later date. There are a few things though that are pretty much mandatory due to safety or environmental concerns. Even though we’re talking about spraying water based acrylics through your airbrush you’ll still want to take care of yourself and your surroundings.

In this article we’ll tall about all of the odds and ends that I use when airbrushing, why I use them or find them useful and finally, whether I feel they are must haves or optional buys.

I’ve got an Airbrush & Compressor so I’m Ready to Start, Right?

If you’ve picked up an airbrush and compressor or other air source you’re probably thinking you’re all set. Well, not quite. There are a few other items you’re going to want to pick up or at least consider. Fortunately, if you’ve spent carefully on the two big items you’ve probably got some room left in the budget to pick some of these things up.

Airbrushing Is Still Spraying Paint, That Means Safety First

First off lets talk about your airspace. What I mean by that is the air that you’re breathing. When you spray paint you’re going to breathe in atomized paint particles unless you take some precautions to minimize your exposure. I know, you’re probably thinking “wait, hobby acrylics are water based paint, how bad can that be?” What you need to be aware of is that some of the materials in paint, like cadmium used in yellow paints is bad for you if you ingest it. I’m not a doctor so I don’t know what the threshold is for breathing something in like cadmium but why risk it? Cadmium and other ingredients in paint can cause organ failure if you get enough exposure. If you’re already sensitive to things or have other issues (or an issue you might be unaware of) you really should take some steps to mitigate your exposure. If you don’t believe me about how much paint you can ingest in an airbrushing session. Blow your nose after you’ve painted something green or black without a mask and see what that looks like. You’ll probably be surprised by how much paint you can actually suck up when you airbrush.

There are two main ways to deal with this. If you’re painting in the garage then you can probably get by with just a mask. If you’re painting in the house, you’ll want to use a mask and some sort of spray booth. You can make a spray booth, check out Google or YouTube and you’ll find some articles or videos there on kludging together a spray booth as a DIY project. If you prefer a ready made solution you can get a portable spray booth, probably from the same place you bought your airbrush and compressor.

This portable airbrush spray booth will keep your airbrushing environment clean

I use the Master Airbrush Portable Spray Booth. These things used to be ridiculously expensive but have come way down in price over the last few years. Retail is $169 but you can pick this up online for around $80. This is offered in a couple of different packages. You’ll want the one that includes the extra hardware for the exhaust. This comes with a semi-rigid flex hose and a spout that is narrow so that you can wedge it in a slightly open window allowing you to vent the air outside. The plastic outlet actually has a raised ridge around it so that you can close the window on it and it stays in place requiring only a narrowly open gap. (It’s pretty mild weather where I live so having a little gap in the window is no big deal. If you’re in colder or warmer climes you’ll probably want to seal that gap.)

This type of dryer vent hose is much more flexible than what’s included with the spray booth

One caveat: the flex hose was a little too rigid for me because of where I needed to position the spray booth relative to the window. I solved this by not using the included flex hose and picking up a 4” diameter dryer vent flex hose at Home Depot. The dryer hose was much more flexible, allowing me to route the exhaust where I needed it easily. One other note, this spray booth is rated for non-flammable materials. Don’t use it with lacquer or enamel paints because the fan isn’t spark proof . You’ll need to explore other more expensive options if you plan to spray anything combustible. I would rate the portable spray booth as a “must have” if you’re working inside your house. Optional if you’re in the garage.

The 3M 6000 Respirator Half Mask is a good choice when using an airbrush

The other safety item is a mask/respirator. Get a good one because it’s your health we’re talking about. In a pinch you can use a disposable paper one and that’s better than nothing but you’re much better off investing in a good mask. I’m recommending the 3M 6000 series half mask. This is a half mask so it only covers your nose & mouth and won’t get in the way of your glasses. It includes filters that are good for sanding/grinding/acrylic painting and you can upgrade it to use filter cartridges if you’re working with harsher chemicals like lacquer or enamel paints. I’m rating the mask as a must have accessory because health is important and I want you to be around awhile to enjoy your hobbying!

Disposable gloves will help keep airbrush overspray off of your hands when holding small models or parts

The next thing on our list is optional, depending on how much you care about getting paint on your hands. I find it handy to keep a box of latex (or nitrile if you’re allergic to latex) disposable gloves in my paint area. I don’t use these for brush painting but I definitely do use them when I’m airbrushing, at least on the hand I’m holding miniatures or models with. Semi-optional but recommended.

Last but not least for environment accessories is something that a lot of people overlook and that’s good lighting. You probably have good lighting on your paint desk where you brush paint. You should have good lighting where you airbrush as well. Either get another light or if you have a light with one of those table clamps that it sockets into, just pick up an extra table clamp and you can move your light around without having to get under your desk to undo the clamp all the time. Good lighting in your work space is a must have!

I have posted other articles about proper desk lamps and daylight bulbs for hobbying and you can check those out if you’d like a little more information on those subjects.

Airbrush Care and Maintenance Accessories

The Iwata Airbrush Cleaning Station is a must have and includes a built in airbrush stand

In this section we’ll look at items that you’ll want to have to take care of your airbrush and work area. There are several items that I find really helpful to have on hand. One of my favorites is an airbrush cleaning station. This is a basically a jar that your airbrush nozzle sockets into and it allows you to empty out paint, cleaning fluid and water rapidly when you’re doing a color change during an airbrushing session. The jar has a little filter that allows air out but keeps moisture and particulates in. When the jar is full you just remove the lid and dump it. You can probably find a video on YouTube telling you how to build one of these if you want to make it a DIY project or you can buy one. I have the Iwata Airbrush Cleaning Station and I like it because it actually has a built in airbrush holder as part of the handle. You can pick this item up for around $20 online usually. Optional but so handy I really recommend it.

This airbrush stand will hold four airbrushes and clamps on to your desk

Airbrush stands come in single double and quad configurations. Handy to have but not required. Definitely consider getting one if you airbrush a lot and have more than one airbrush.

This 10 foot long braided airbrush hose will give you plenty of room to work and should last just about forever

One thing I really recommend is a 10′ long braided airbrush hose. Don’t use the thin vinyl ones that come with some airbrush packages. The hose will kink and/or crack eventually. I’m also not a fan of the plastic coil up hoses. They always seem to be in the way and I feel like I’m fighting against my hose all the time. If you purchased one of the Master Airbrush Compressors I mentioned in my previous article it probably came with a 6 foot braided hose and that may be adequate for you so try it out first. Since I keep my compressor on the floor I like having the longer hose. Recommended but optional.

This handy airbrush adapter set covers all of the most common airbrushes

If you’re using a braided hose chances are it’s a standard Iwata hose unless it states otherwise. One thing that’s frustrating about airbrushes is that every manufacturer seems to use a different sized threaded fitting for their air connections. You’ll need to make sure you have the correct adapter to mate your airbrush to your air hose or quick disconnect. If you’re not sure, here’s a handy three pack of the most popular adapters. Recommended depending on your airbrush and hoses.

Airbrush quick disconnects are a very handy accessory but avoid the cheap/generic ones as they tend to leak

An item that I really like is airbrush quick disconnects. These don’t typically come with your airbrush but are a really excellent add-on. They allow you to swap out airbrushes almost instantly by use of a snap together chuck as opposed to having to unscrew everything. I have one of these attached to each end of my airbrush hose and a quick disconnect fitting at the compressor and on each airbrush I use. If you decide to go this route, I really recommend you spend a little extra and get the Iwata branded ones. I originally went with generic ones sold by TCP Global and I had rotten luck with those. After trying several of them I switched to Iwata because every one of the cheap ones leaked air like a sieve. Strictly optional but very handy. If you go with quick disconnects spend a little extra and get good ones.

Teflon pipe thread tape – pick a roll of this up at the local hardware store

You may have received a roll of Teflon tape with your air compressor. If you didn’t, pick one up at a hardware store for about two bucks. Use this on anything that’s threaded, like where your regulator connects to your compressor or your quick disconnect connects to your regulator, etc. Basically any place there’s an adapter or fitting needs a bit of of this to ensure it doesn’t leak. Recommended

These tiny brushes will be useful when you break down your airbrush for a thorough cleaning

Pick up a set of airbrush cleaning brushes. This will make the process of giving your airbrush a thorough cleaning much easier. You’ll be using these when you do a total breakdown of your airbrush to clean it at the end of your painting sessions. Recommended. Look for a detailed how-to about airbrush breakdown and cleaning in a future article.

You probably have these around the house, keep a roll handy at your airbrushing work area

Paper towels. Yep, it probably sounds dumb to tell you this but you’re going to want to have a roll handy because you will spill stuff at the worst possible time and need them “right now”. If you’re not spilling stuff, you’re not really airbrushing.

Keep an extra airbrush needle around, so you’ll have it in an emergency

No matter how careful you are, eventually you’re going to bend or damage your airbrush needle. Buy an extra airbrush needle now because you’re going to do this right in the middle of a big project when you can’t afford to wait a few days to get one in via the mail. Murphy’s law also assures you that your local hobby shop will be out of the exact airbrush needle you desperately need in an emergency. All kidding aside, get a spare. Highly recommended.

An example of an airbrush crown cap – get the one for your airbrush if it didn’t come with one

If your airbrush didn’t come with one, pick up a crown cap. Your airbrush nozzle probably comes with a nozzle cap that looks like a nose cone on a rocket with the tip shaved off. When you get in really close to do fine detail that cap restricts airflow and actually creates a bit of turbulence at the tip that can make your fine lines fuzzier than you want them to be. A crown cap has cutaway areas at the nozzle to reduce most of this turbulence but still has protrusions to protect the needle. Some experienced airbrush users will paint without the nozzle cap but I don’t recommend that, it’s a good way to damage the tip of your airbrush needle. Recommended

This small ultrasonic cleaner is great at removing bits of stuck on dried paint from your airbrush

An ultrasonic cleaner is strictly optional but handy to have around when you do a thorough breakdown and cleaning of your airbrush. These used to be outrageously expensive but you can now find them everywhere online in the $40 to $60 range. You fill them with water and dunk your airbrush parts for a few minutes and they’ll basically vibrate all the stuck on bits of paint and junk off of your airbrush. Usually one 5 to 10 minute bath cycle does the trick. More if you’ve been a slacker and not cleaned your airbrush or let paint dry in it. Also, you can get this past your non hobbying significant other by telling them they can use it to clean jewelry too. Optional

Liquitex airbrush thinner works well with a variety of acrylic paints

If you’re using an airbrush paint or a hobby paint, pick up the same brand airbrush thinner if available. Golden or Liquitex Airbrush Medium is also a good choice. Otherwise you’re going to have to do some experimenting to find a suitable thinner. Almost all paint will need to be thinned to be shot through an airbrush. Even some of the paints marketed as airbrush ready may need a little more thinning to really flow well. In a pinch you can use water or alcohol but I’d experiment with that a bit first. I’ll put up another article in the near future about thinning paints for use in an airbrush.

Plain old distilled water. Available at the grocery store for about $2 a gallon

Get a gallon of distilled water at the grocery store. Always run a little of this through your airbrush after changing colors or running airbrush cleaner through it. Two bucks at the grocery store. Highly recommended

windshield washer fluid airbrush cleaner

Windshield washer fluid, available at your local Wal Mart or auto parts. Get the cheap stuff and use it as airbrush cleaner.

You can buy expensive airbrush cleaners to run through your airbrush between paints and after painting sessions. Do this instead: Pick up a gallon of cheapo windshield washer fluid at your local Wal Mart or auto parts. Get the cheap blue stuff that’s around two bucks a gallon. Don’t get the expensive stuff. This is mostly colored water with a bit of methanol and possibly some detergent mixed in. It does a great job of cleaning your airbrush and is dirt cheap. A gallon will last you a long time. Never leave this or any other cleaner in your airbrush, always run clean water though your airbrush after running any sort of cleaner through it.

Plastic squeeze bottles are great for keeping your distilled water, cleaner and other fluids handy

You’re going to want a few plastic squeeze bottles to make your life easier. I recommended one for distilled water and another for windshield washer/cleaning fluid as you won’t want to be handling one gallon bottles of that stuff while you’re airbrushing. Pick up a couple of these liter or half liter sized squeeze bottles with caps and keep those filled up with your cleaning fluids at your work area. Don’t forget to get a small funnel to make transferring from the big bottles to the small bottles a snap. Very handy and of course optional but recommended.

These small plastic dropper bottles are great for custom paint mixes or transferring paint from pots

If you’re mixing your own colors or transferring paint from a large container to a smaller more convenient container get some of these dropper bottles. These are super cheap, around $15 for 50 of them shipped via Amazon and they are really handy to have around.

Plastic pipettes work great for transferring paint between paint pots and your airbrush

Also consider picking up some of these plastic pipettes if you’re using paint that isn’t packaged in dropper bottles. Trying to pour paint from a paint pot into an airbrush color cup is a sure way to make a mess and waste a lot of paint. Highly recommended if you’re using paint from non dropper bottles.

There’s a few other items that are handy to have around but you probably have these around the house or your hobby work area already. Keep an old brush around if you’re mixing colors and thinner in the airbrush paint cup. Also keep a pen and pad handy so you can make notes about custom color mixes and thinning paints as different paint colors in the same line of paints will have different thinning requirements.

Airbrush, Compressor and Accessories, Now It’s a Party!

At this point, you should be pretty set to start airbrushing, all that remains is for you to dive in and just do it. In upcoming articles I’ll revisit this subject to talk about thinning paints for use in an airbrush and how to clean and maintain your airbrush. I’ve added links below to the previous two articles in this series and in the future I’ll come back here and add links to any new articles that are related to this content to make it easier to find everything. If you have questions, feel free to contact me here or to find me over on Twitter @HolyCrapItsLate.

Part 1 – Airbrushing for the Miniatures Hobby – Airbrush Basics & Mini Reviews

Part 2 – Airbrushing for the Miniatures Hobby – Airbrush Compressors & Hardware

As always, your constructive comments and suggestions are welcome. Feel free to leave them in the comment section below.

Airbrushing for the Miniatures Hobby – Airbrush Compressors & Hardware

Hobby Tradecraft, News and Info, Tabletop Gaming 3 Responses »

Feb 112015

Information and recommendations on Airbrush Compressors

Picking up from the last article on airbrush basics I’d like to talk about the other big decision when it comes to entering the airbrush hobby – what to use as an air source. For most of you this will mean some sort of compressor but even with that decision made there are still some considerations on what kind of compressor you should get. Outside of airbrush compressors there are a few other options that include canned air, air tanks and even a spare tire. Lets dive right in and talk about alternate air sources first and then we’ll cover various types of compressors and hardware that goes with them.

Other than an Airbrush Compressor What Can Be Used as an Air Source?

There are lots of questions about airbrush compressors. Lets try and get to the bottom of this!

You have a few options if you just can’t swing an airbrush compressor due to funds or your living situation. The least expensive thing is to get an adapter that will attach to the valve stem on a spare tire. These cost a few bucks and with a fully inflated tire from a pickup truck or passenger car you’ll have enough air to last a lengthy painting session. The caveat of course is that if you decide to use the spare from your car or your spouses car and then don’t have that with you when you need it the cost of dealing with that mistake will likely be greater than if you had just bought a compressor in the first place. Really think about this and weigh the consequences before deciding to go this route. Also consider that tires are generally smelly and dirty and you’ll have to take it somewhere to fill it up occasionally so if you’re planning on having this in your house you may be in for some trouble.

Another solution is the use of canned air like Badger Propel. To be honest this is probably the worst alternative to an airbrush compressor. These cans cost about $12 to $14 each and are a hassle to use. As you use air from these cans they get very cold and the pressure drops. This means you’ll either have to have multiple cans and keep switching them in order to keep airbrushing or you’ll have to warm them up in a bucket of water or come up with some other scheme to keep the cans warm enough so that pressure doesn’t become an issue. At some point with canned air you’ll realize that you’ve spent enough money to have bought an actual airbrush compressor and that’s going to make you angry and frustrated.

Another problem with both of these solutions is that the “regulator” is really just an on/off valve like a water tap. There’s no gauge so you have no way of actually knowing what pressure you’re dialing in and no real control of the air pressure.

One other thing to consider, and this is the best of the three non-compressor solutions in my opinion, is a portable air tank. These are usually available at hardware and auto parts stores but will be less expensive online, particularly if you can get one with free shipping. Portable air tanks vary in size from three to ten gallons typically and online prices for those range from $40 to $60. You’ll need to take this somewhere to fill it just like you would a tire but it’s a lot easier to handle and have around. They hold quite a bit of air and the larger tanks will keep you supplied for several airbrushing sessions. This is a good alternative choice for an airbrush compressor if you need something quiet or if you have a regular shop compressor in your garage to fill it. I recommend getting a regulator for this though as you won’t want to directly connect it to your airbrush.

What Kind of Compressors Can You Use With An Airbrush?

There are several kinds of compressors that are suitable for use with an airbrush. If you have access to a regular shop compressor this will work. You probably won’t want this in the house though because they are very loud so it’s only a good solution in terms of environment if you’re working in a space where you don’t mind the noise, like a garage or dedicated workshop. If you use this kind of compressor you’ll need a manifold and a combination regulator and moisture trap as part of your setup. The manifold is just a splitter so that you can run a dedicated line for your regular high pressure shop air and a line for your airbrush regulator which will allow you to dial down the high pressure your compressor supplies to a manageable range for airbrushing. (Your compressor probably supplies air at 90 to 125 PSI or more and you’re only going to need a maximum of 25 PSI for airbrushing.)

Here’s a typical combination airbrush regulator & moisture trap, perfect for attaching to your shop compressor

Compressors tend to accumulate moisture when they work and this is sometimes ejected out the air line and will foul your paint so you’ll need a water trap to prevent any moisture from reaching your airbrush. You can usually get a combination regulator/water trap for the airbrush side of the manifold.

Do not buy one of these or anything remotely like this. You will be disappointed.

Another type of airbrush compressor you may see recommended is one that is a sealed unit in a small plastic case. These are typically sold to nail artists and cake decorators. You don’t want this. They run constantly, they don’t give you any control over the air pressure and tend to run on the low side pressure wise. This is frequently presented as a budget solution but it just isn’t a very good one. They also tend to pulsate the airflow as you spray which can cause problems with your paints finish. Since they run continuously they also get hot and will sometimes shut down due to overheating.

Finally, we get to dedicated airbrush compressors. These are purpose built small compressors that are designed specifically for airbrushing. These come with or without a tank and run from right around $100 up to and well beyond $500. The good news is, unless you’re a professional artist or have very specific needs due to your living situation there is really no reason to spend much more than $100 on an airbrush compressor.

At the high end of airbrush compressors are specialized, silent compressors. These are very expensive due to the fact that they are almost completely silent. They are designed for heavy usage and usually don’t require any extra hardware like regulators or moisture traps as these features are all built in. The catch is that you pay a very hefty premium for those features and I personally don’t feel that it is worth it for the typical hobbyist who probably spends 10 to 15 hours a week airbrushing, if that. I’ve also seen professional painters state that ultimately these compressors only last for a couple of years even though they are five times the price of a more budget friendly airbrush compressor, and this is coming from professionals who probably run their airbrush compressors 40 or more hours per week, week in and week out.

This brings us to the most common choice for airbrush compressors, the single piston airbrush compressor. These come in both tankless and tank included versions and are your best choice if you’re going to be working inside your house and don’t need to be completely silent. An airbrush compressor without a tank will run continuously, and one with a tank will charge the tank and then only kick on as the pressure in the tank drops below a preset threshold. Having the air reservoir also eliminates any weird pulsation from your air supply while spraying paint. Getting an airbrush compressor with a tank is the best compromise between price and noise and surprisingly, won’t break the bank.

So What Kind of Airbrush Compressor Should I Get?

As you can see there are a lot of choices but some of them are actually easy to eliminate like canned air and spare tires. Honestly the tire as a reservoir isn’t worth the hassle and the dirty little secret about canned air is that if you’re paying twelve dollars a can for that, by the time you’ve purchased eight cans you could have purchased a budget friendly single piston airbrush compressor that includes a storage tank.

The Porter Cable Shop Air Compressor is good for a lot of tasks including being a great airbrush compressor

As far as shop compressors go, I have a fairly small one. I don’t use this for airbrushing because I work in the house. I do use it for airing up bike tires and inflatables, and other odds and ends. To be honest I don’t use it all that much. I’ve had it for awhile and it always kicks on when I need it to so I feel comfortable recommending it. The shop compressor I have is the Porter-Cable PCFP02002 3.5 gallon unit. This compressor is fairly portable at 25 or so pounds and has a carry handle for those times you need to help a neighbor out with a low tire or blow up kiddie pool. This is really adequate for most of the stuff you’re going to be doing in your garage and with the addition of a manifold, and combination regulator/moisture trap would be great for airbrushing if your work in your garage or have a dedicated work space where the loud compressor noise doesn’t matter. This compressor retails for about $140 but you can get it delivered via Amazon for $100 which is a good deal and very convenient.

A Typical 5 Gallon Portable Air Tank – these can be found at most hardware & tool stores as well as online

If you’ve already got a shop air compressor then my recommendation depends on where you do your hobbying. Working in the garage? Get a manifold, air regulator and moisture trap. Have the shop compressor but work inside the house where that isn’t practical due to the racket the shop compressor makes? Get a portable air tank, add a regulator and fill as needed. The added benefit is that this is silent air pressure for working in the house. You can expect to pay about 40 dollars online for a 5 gallon portable air tank. You’ll need to add a regulator to the portable tank to control the air pressure to your airbrush. If you happen to have a Harbor Freight Tools nearby you can pick up a 5 gallon portable air tank from them for around $25. (You may be tempted to buy a compressor from them also but do your homework on that first. Harbor Freight is good for a lot of stuff but I’m not sure I’d trust their power tools to hold up long term.)

If you need to work indoors and be silent or almost silent then you’re going to pay a very big premium for that privilege. When I say “very big premium” I mean you’re probably going to pay five times what you would pay for a non-silent airbrush compressor. I don’t currently own one of these but I have used one and it is very quiet. I have a friend who does nail art so she bought one for her business and has found it very reliable over the course of the last couple years. While I really don’t like the idea of spending this much for an airbrush compressor I’m adding it here for the sake of completeness.

The silent and very pricey Iwata Power Jet Pro Airbrush Compressor

My recommendation for a super silent, reliable airbrush compressor is the Iwata Studio Series Power Jet Pro. This baby is almost completely silent and you pay for that with a retail price of over $550 (!). It does come with a tank and some extra bells and whistles like two separate regulators/moisture traps. It’s also actually a dual piston airbrush compressor that’s designed and built to run two airbrushes at the same time. This airbrush compressor also comes with quick disconnect fittings at the outlets – something you’ll probably want to add to your airbrush kit anyway. (I’ll be talking about these and more in the next article in this series). Extras like regulators and quick disconnects are nice features but don’t justify the total cost on their own. Again, what you’re paying the premium for here is the silent operation. For me and probably most of you, looking to get into an airbrush set up that is way too much of a premium to justify the cost unless you have a very particular set of needs (after all, that’s an extra $400 plus that you could be spending on miniatures and terrain instead of a tool). There is a “Power Jet Lite” version of this airbrush compressor without an air tank and a single regulator. That retails for$420. Both of these airbrush compressors can usually be found online with a ten to twenty percent discount.

The Master Airbrush Single Piston Airbrush Compressor with Tank as sold on Amazon. All of this for only $89 plus shipping!

Finally we have what I consider to be the best of all worlds for hobbyists looking to get an airbrush compressor. Allow me to introduce you to the Master Airbrush TC20T Airbrush Compressor. This unit is a purpose built single piston airbrush compressor with a tank. It include a combination regulator/water trap and even includes a six foot long braided hose. (The hose that comes with this has fittings for an Iwata airbrush. If you’re using something different you’ll need to purchase an inexpensive adapter). The best part? You get all of this for a very budget friendly $100 delivered via Amazon. This airbrush compressor also occasionally goes on promotion with free shipping for $89 or less but at $100 it’s such a good deal it’s worth it to just pick it up rather than wait for a sale.

This airbrush compressor isn’t silent but it is fairly quiet. I’d describe it being equivalent to a tabletop room fan. I airbrush in a portable spray booth and to be honest, the fan noise from the spray booth mostly drowns out the compressor noise as I have the compressor on the floor under my desk most of the time. I’ve had this compressor for a couple of years and for the price (I actually paid about $120 with shipping when I purchased this a couple years ago). I think I have gotten a lot of value out of it. I don’t use it every day and when I’m doing a lot of painting I’m probably still not running it for more than 10-15 hours a week. I’ve heard a couple of people say stuff like “that can’t possibly be any good for under $100. My experience with this compressor has been excellent. I should also mention that it has a two year full warranty and TCP Global (the source for this compressor) has excellent customer service.

I do have one complaint about this airbrush compressor. The design of the connection where you install the included regulator/water trap is ill conceived and the regulator ends up being upside down when you tighten it. This has been the case for at least a couple of years and I’m a bit disappointed that this hasn’t been addressed by the manufacturer. However this can be remedied by using extra Teflon tape on the threads of either the regulator or the nipple that is attached to the air storage tank. It will take a bit of tinkering to get it seated in the upright position but it can be dealt with by the end user. This isn’t enough of a flaw to really downgrade this compressor but if I was scoring this on a scale of one to five I’d give it a 4.5 instead of a 5. Bottom line, I just don’t think you can beat this price and performance level for an airbrush compressor. This is the compressor I recommend to everyone who asks for information on airbrush compressors.

The Wrap Up and Onward to Airbrush Accessories

This wraps up the second part of a series of articles on airbrushing for miniatures hobbyists and modelers. My goal with this article was to provide you with enough information to make an informed decision on an airbrush compressor. For my breakdown and recommendations on airbrushes see my previous article “Airbrushing for the Miniatures Hobby – Airbrush Basics & Mini Reviews”. In the next article in this series I’ll talk about all of the odds and ends that you may not have considered when you started thinking about getting an airbrush and compressor. Some of these items will be things that you’re definitely going to need and some will be optional but handy to have as you grow into airbrushing.

As always, feel free to leave constructive feedback or your own tips and tricks below in the comments section.

Sticky Situation – Glues for Miniatures & Modeling Projects

Hobby Tradecraft, News and Info, Tabletop Gaming 3 Responses »

May 282014

Something that I get asked a lot when I’m talking miniatures is what glue to use for various projects. For a lot of folks coming in to the miniatures hobby, glue is almost an afterthought, something you throw in to the pile of stuff you’re buying at checkout. For others it can be a mystery, meaning they’ve seen a bunch of different glues but aren’t sure what they should use for the miniatures or model kit they just bought. The truth is there are lots of different types of glues and they have different uses depending on what miniatures or models you’re assembling.

An avalanche of adhesives!

Miniature and Model Glue Basics

Not all model glues are the same, in fact there’s quite a bit of variety. There’s also variety in how these are dispensed or applied. One of the key things when choosing a glue for your project is knowing what material you’re going to be assembling. Different types of plastics and resins will require different glues. Look at the package for the item you’re assembling, some manufacturers will suggest what you need for assembly. If you’re not sure, check the manufacturers website or one of the many forums dedicated to hobby modeling and miniatures. You can also ask the resident expert at your Friendly Local Game Store, he or she will probably be happy to talk to you and answer your questions.

One of the most important rules about using glue is, “less is more”. Use glues sparingly, you want to bond parts to parts and using a thin film of glue will accomplish this. If you get too much glue on your parts you’ll end up gluing large blobs of glue to each other. This will result in a poor bond and the parts not fitting together correctly. Too much glue can also etch or warp the plastic, depending on the material and the glue you are using.

Prepare your miniatures surfaces. There are three keys to preparation: clean, test fit, and surface preparation. Most miniatures and models use a mold release agent to make getting the parts out of the molds an easier process. This release agent can be greasy or powdery. The release agent will interfere with glues and it’ll also prevent paint from sticking to the models when you get to that stage.

It’s recommended that you wash parts in warm soapy water – dish washing liquid is fine for this with plastic and metal models. For resin models you will need to use something more powerful like Simple Green or Fabuloso (I think Fabuloso is the Mexican version of Purple Power, I get it at the local Mexican market. It’s cheaper than the name brand stuff and works just as well). After washing, make sure parts are completely dry before gluing them.

You’ll want to dry fit your parts before applying glue. This just means putting the parts together without glue so that you understand how they fit together, that it’s a tight fit, and that you get an idea of where the best places are to apply glue. Lastly you’ll want to do surface prep like removing any burrs or sprue gates/mold lines that will get in the way of a tight fight or be difficult to access after the parts are glued together. (Sprue gates are the bits where the part is attached to the sprue so that the material can flow into the mold during manufacture.)

Sometimes with very smooth parts it’s a good idea to rough up the surfaces where the parts will join in order to get a better surface for the glue to bond the parts. You can do this with your needle files, small emery boards or even an X-acto knife.

These small sanding sticks/emery boards are really handy for surface prep on miniatures and model kits

When applying glue, use a tool that gives you good control of your glue. This can be a needle applicator tip, a brush or even something as simple as a toothpick. As mentioned above you want to apply glue sparingly. Squirting it out of a tube is probably the worst way of applying glue. If tube glue is what you have, squirt a little bit onto some wax paper and then use a toothpick or cheap brush to apply it to the parts.

Types of Glue I Use

I actually have a large assortment of glues because there’s no such thing as “One Glue to Bind Them All”. I’ll go through the types of glue I use and what I use them for. As a general rule you’re going to use model cement for most plastic miniatures and model kits that are made of styrene or ABS. You’ll use Crazy Glue/Cyanoacrylates (aka CA) for resin models and some softer “bendy” plastics – this is where you’ll need to check with the manufacturer if you’re not sure. Those heavy duty large model kits may require some two part epoxy or extra thick CA. Last but not least you’ll want some PVA/Elmers White Glue for basing and scenery materials.

Crazy Glue/Cyanoacrylate (CA)

I have several different types of CA and use each one for different applications. I use a thin CA for general assembly of small resin miniatures and some small metal parts as well. I recommend you get one with a built in brush applicator. The brush gives you a lot of control and allows you to put the CA only where you need it. I recommend Games Workshops “Super Glue Thin” product. It’s easy to find and easy to use. The packaging ensures that the brush comes out of the bottle loaded with a moderate amount of glue and the GW product is widely available at game and hobby stores.

Game Workshop Super Glue Thin is widely available at hobby shops. Loctite also makes a thin superglue with a brush applicator.

I also use a thicker gap-filling CA, Bob Smith Industries Insta-Cure+ for spots where I need some extra strength or to fill a small gap. Using a thicker CA can also give you better control of the glue when you’re applying it. CA’s go from very thin all the way up to gel like consistency. You can experiment with these various thicknesses to see which you are most comfortable with. This particular product has a plastic tip that you cut open on first use so just cut the very tip of it off so you have a small opening. If the tip gets gummed up you can buy replacement bottle tops and caps. (Another use for the thicker CA’s is as a gap filler. You can run some thick or gel type CA into a gap between parts and when it sets you’ll be able to sand and finish it so that it completely hides the gap. You can use an Accelerator to speed up the curing process – more on Accelerators below)

Bob Smith Industries Insta Cure+ is my preferred CA.

For places where I really need a strong bond, for example, large kits with heavy wings or that have heavy metal add on parts I use Bob Smith Industries IC-2000. IC-2000 is a CA that has had very finely ground black rubber added to it. I have used this to secure things like dragon wings to large metal models and it is very strong. I’ve dropped stuff that is glued together with IC-2000 and the actual metal snaps off close to join but not the joined parts. This stuff is really just for specialized applications but it is handy to have around.

Bob Smith Industries IC-2000

The last two CA products I keep around are BSI Insta-Set Accelerator and BSI Un-Cure Debonder. The Insta-Set is an accelerator. You can use it to speed up the curing process for CA’s but be aware that a bond using accelerator will be less strong than one without. Another use for accelerator is quick curing when using CA to fill a gap. You run a bead of CA over the gap and the spray the accelerator over it to cure it immediately. Accelerator creates a chemical reaction and the by product is heat. This reaction can get VERY hot so be careful about having glue on your skin when using this product. Accelerator can also etch styrene plastic so use it sparingly.

Bob Smith Industries Insta Set Accelerator

Un-Cure is a CA debonder. You can use this product to dissolve the bond between parts or remove CA from your skin. Use debonder sparingly as it can soften plastic parts.

CA Tip: The reason CA’s are so good at bonding skin is because that was their original purpose! If you apply some lotion to your hands before working with CA it may help you by making any CA you get stuck to yourself a bit easier to remove. It won’t completely prevent it from bonding to you but may make cleanup a bit easier.

Model Cement and Solvent

There are lots of types of model cement. My biggest issue with this is how you apply it. Because of that I have a favorite product for those just starting out. This product is Testors Model Master Liquid Cement. This product comes with a steel needle tip allowing for very precise and controlled application. This has been my go-to model cement for at least a decade, possibly longer. The tip rarely clogs because it’s steel and any dried glue just peels away. The package does include a couple of fine wire tip cleaners for the rare clog. (There’s a similar Testors product “Quick Dry Cement”. This does not have the steel tip so make sure you get the Model Masters cement.)

The Testors Model Masters Cement with the steel needle applicator gives you great control over the amount and placement of glue on miniature & model parts

The other Testors product I use is Model Masters Clear Parts Cement. This is formulated differently so it won’t etch or fog up clear parts like cockpit canopies or windows. Highly recommend this product as there’s nothing more aggravating that putting a ton of work into a kit and then having the windows get fogged by cement.

Model Masters Cement – this one’s got the steel needle applicator tip

The last type of model cement I use is more of a solvent. It’s very thin and has a brush applicator. I typically lay the brush at the join and allow the glue to wick it’s way in between the parts. This glue actually melts the plastic a bit so that the parts fuse together. I love this stuff because it enables me to get a really good join and a tight fit on parts that have been correctly prepped. I have been using Tamiya Extra Thin and I really recommend this particular product.

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement

Model cements and solvents should be used sparingly as they can warp, soften or etch plastic. Quick tip: the thin cements and solvents are volatile and will evaporate quickly. Use with good ventilation and keep the lid on tight. If you forget to put the lid on you may return to a mostly empty bottle the next day!

2-Part Epoxy

I occasionally use a 2-part epoxy like Devcon or JB Weld. Just be aware of the short working time – I use a five minute epoxy and make sure you mix this thoroughly. I don’t recommend using anything with a quicker setting time than five minutes as you’ll invariably run up against the clock and that can be frustrating. Also, look at the package and see what you need for cleaning this up BEFORE you start mixing. You’ll want to be ready for clean up immediately upon finishing with this product.

PVA aka Elmers Glue

PVA is Polyvinyl Acetate, commonly known as Elmer’s Glue. You’ll want some of this for basing. Thin it slightly with water and apply it to your base with a brush, then add your basing material to the base. Once your basing material has dried completely you can paint a thinned coat of PVA over it to seal it on to the base. Some good alternatives to Elmers are Weldbond and Aleene’s Tacky Glue. Aleene’s can be particularly useful on bases with a slick surface. (Don’t forget that for slick surfaced bases you can also rough them up a bit before applying glue to help give the glue something to bond with).

Weldbond Glue – I keep this around because I use it a lot for large terrain projects as well

Before we wrap up I want to mention that I have not talked about pinning models in this post at all because that is another lengthy subject that should have it’s own article. I’ll be putting together a guide for pinning models in the near future but in the meantime you can check this article for some thorough information on what you’ll need to have when we talk about pinning models.

As always, the way I talk about doing things and what I use is based on a my own history of building models and miniatures. These are the products I use and the ways I do things but they are by no means the only way of doing things. If you’d like to contribute an idea or an opinion of a product that you like, feel free to do so in the comments section below. Constructive dialog is always welcome here!

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